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Hill Muztaga is known as ‘the father of the glacier’; it’s located in the borderline of the Akto and Taxkorgan. The Muztaga has an institute of 7546m. The altitude of it’s Snowline and glacier is respectively 5200m and 4300m. The mountain has an average temperature of －20℃－-30℃,a lowest humidity of 9-11 degree and an average wind power of 5-6 .The base camp located in 4500m, the place is flat enough for training, rest and trekking.
Hill Muztaga is listed in the 69th among the world’s highest hills (measured by altitude). But its repute is inferior to the Everest only. There are three snow mountains above 7000m accompanied the Muztaga, in the south side is 7028 and the east side is 7050. The Muztaga is just like a Pyramid and has a great scene. The hill is the mark of Pamirs and is attractive to the mountaineering heroes, especially the people from Europe, Switzerland, Germany, Italy, Austria and etc. In addition, you can see the secondly highest Hill Qogir which a hundred kilometers away in sunning days.
Hill Muztaga provides the iceberg landform, owns more than ten glaciers and several tens kilometers land covered with snow. The Muztaga has four main chines: the South, the West, the Northwest and the Northeast ones. The west slope is plane but cracky, while the North Slope and east slope are both steepness and unable to climb. So the plat west slope has become the traditional route for the climbers. Take a view from the Karakul Lake in the foot; the Hill is just like a hoaryheaded old man. So the indigenes called the hill ‘Muztage Alta’. ‘Muztage’ means ‘floeberg’, ‘Alta’ means ‘father’.
The Zhongkun group built the Muztaga Service and Manage Centre near the 314 national highway and made a basic rebuilt of the base camp these years. Considering the protection of environment and safe as the most important, they arranged all things considered to the environment and the waterhead. What they did contributes a lot to the protection of the hill and colored the Muztaga. They have got the tourist’s favorable comment at home and aboard.
Nowadays, during the July and August, there are motley tents in the base camp lived with explorers from various countries and speaking kinds of languages. The Hill Muztaga has become one of the most attractive Tourism Destination.
Mountaineering routes
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（1）Traditional west route:
Route: BC base camp(4300m) ――Ｃ１（5400m）――Ｃ２（6300m）――Ｃ３（6800m）――Muztaga Ata（7456m）――Ｃ２（6300m）――base camp（4300m）
The west route is traditional; the route has a long way with heavy snow. Before the Muztaga Ata people have to build at least 3 camps. The traditional route has fewer difficulties, more safety and more choices of building camps. The adaptability to the high altitude and the climb ability of the climbers will be improved a lot. |
Camps
1. Base Camp BC
Location: the base camp for climbing is established at the foot of Mt. Muztagta with a sea level of 4300 meters.
The location is broad in area, Zhongkun Group has set up mountain climbing reception station.
2. NO.1 Camp C1
Place: NO.1 Camp C1 is located at mild slopes of intersection between stones and snow at a sea level of 5400 meters.
There is a 1000 meters increase in sea level from the base camp to NO. 1 camp, which also takes one day to travel. Due to organization of frequent mountain climbing activities, it is easy to find the platform of artificial pavement for building tents. The climbing route from BC to C1 is a 35 degree gravel slope with clear beaten path directly leading to C1 by mountain climbers.
3. ABC Camp
There is a camp called ABC between BC and C1, actually it is a platform manually constructed based on natural landscape with a sea level of 5000 meters, only preserved as loading transit site from stock transportation to manual transportation.
4. C1.5 Camp:
In 1999 of Urumqi, the mountain climbing association set up a temporary camp at a sea level of 5700 meters in Mt. Muztagta, the camp is called C1.5 and only preserved for emergency conditions and rest. This temporary camp starts to play important roles in latter climbing activities.
5. NO. Camp C2
Location: C2 camp is set up on the platform 6300 meters above the area of glacier fall.
At both levels of 6100 meters and 6300 meters, there are also one station camp for each. Normally, 6100 meters is called low C2 while 6300 meters are called high C2. It takes 6 to 7 hours at regular speed from C1 to C2 which is one of the most complicated and precipitous section in the climbing route of Mt. Muztagta.
6. NO. 3 Camp C3
Location: C3 Camp normally can be set sea level of 6700 meters. Some teams can also set C3 at 7000 meters.
This section is distributed in ladder landscape, there are a large platform which can be used as a camp site at sea level of both 6700 meters and 6800 meters.
7. Mt. Muztagta
The top of Mt. Muztagta is a large platform, it is equal to a football field in size. The surrounding landscapes have exposed stones due to wind of years, there are traces left behind by mountain climbers each year on the mountain slopes. |
Stratagem in west route
1. Base Camp BC→NO.1 Camp C1
Stone and snow mixed region
Brief Introduction: while climbing up the gravel slope, you can see clearly the little trail directly leading to C1 camp. The route from BC to C1 is a 35 degree gravel slope, there is a clear beaten trail by mountain climbers directly leading to C1. It is noticeable that there is a camp called ABC between BC and C1, it is actually a platform manually constructed on basis of natural landscapes on gravel slopes with a sea level of 5000 meters, which is only preserved as a transit site from animal powered transportation to man-power transportation. There is consistent charge for animal powered transportation in local area, it charges 8 to 10 yuan for each kilograms of materials for mountain climbing, it is a large sum of expenditure in mountain climbing activities. It takes 5 to 6 hours to travel from the base camp to C1 camp.
2. NO. 1 Camp c1→NO. 2 Camp c2
Brief Introduction: the most difficult section is to pass the glacier fall area in transportation. Instantly changeable weather and mist covered heavy snow are potential dangers. The most complicated and precipitous section in climbing routes of Mt. Muztagta is from C1 to C2. From sea level of 5500 meters, it enters glacier fall area which features complicated landscapes and cracks. Some area has gradient of 45 degree, along with thick areas of snow, changeable wind directions and intersections of ice and snow slopes, sight can be constantly blocked by mist and snow as well as with difficulties for vehicles. You must carefully seek routes designated with signposts to travel, or you will be easily exposed to dangers of getting lost or falling into ice cracks; wear skies to save energy. C2 camp should be set at platform of 6100 meters or 6200 meters. It takes 6-7 hours from C1 to C2.
3. NO.2 Camp C2→ NO. 3 Camp C3
Brief Introduction: although the gradient is not large, the distance is longer. So it demands large energy storage and good preparation prior to mountain climbing. At above of C2 camp, there is a long hidden crack over 1.5 meter width crossing the climbing route. You must take care not to fall. The slope gradient gets mild from C2 to C3, but the distance gets longer. This section is in ladder shape, there is a large platform which can be used as the site for setting camps at sea levels of 6700 meters and 6800 meters. C3 camp can set up at sea level of 6700 meters, although there is a comparative height of over 800 meters relative to the main mountain, it is good for rest.
4. NO.3 camp c3→mountain peak
Brief Introduction: through long journey of climbing on snowy mountain slopes, we have reached peak of the mountain with over 7000 meters. Starting from c3, after climbing on a mountain slope of 30-40 degree, there is a mild slope directly leading to the main peak with gradient about 15 degree. As the mountain slope is not very deep, the journey is long and remote, the weather is changeable in seconds. There can be randomly risk of getting lost, so climbers in front should set up signposts. Meanwhile, the area has a sea level of over 7000 meters with thin oxygen, which poses severe chanllenges to mountain climbers. The surrounding landscape near mountain peak is affected by wind through many years, stones become naked, leaving traces of mountain climbers each year for mountain climbers. |
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（2）Ta county route:
Route: base camp（4500m）--- C1（5400m）--- C2（6170m）--- C3（6800）--- Muztaga Ata（7546m）
Base Camp（4500m）: the pre-BC is about 50m higher and located in a grassplot with rocks. The base camp was more comfortable but has smaller place to build the camps.
BC to C1 (5400m): Go to the left side of the rocky slope on foot. The snowline which needs walk though by wearing boot is about 5200 meters far. The sliders can ski from the 5050 high. |
C1 to C2(6170m): Up to the left upper side of the snow slope along the slot, you can have a excellent scene of Kartamak glacier here. The C2 is right in the place where the Kartamak glacier comes across the main body.
C2 o C3(6800m): Hundreds meters away from the C2 you will meet two wide cracks, the way between the two cracks is clear and safe. Up along the slope again to the 6400m high, turn left a little towards the break of the crack, and then go in line with the gentle slope you can reach to C3.
C3 to the Muztaga Ata（7546m）: Leave the C3 and go up straight, you will get through the left crack soon and arrive at the 7050m high. It’s the nek of the highest peak and the Kalaxong （7277m）in the right side. Before success you can find two piles of stone, and the left one is the peak. |
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